Vandrea Does America: Day 85 (Thursday 9/13/12)- Farmington, NM

Today was exceptional for several reasons. Waking earlier than the previous day and waking to sunshine reinvigorated us and we set out to conquer the highest sand dunes in North America. Sand Dunes Park begins at 7,520 feet above sea level and rises in the surrounding mountain range as high as 13,604 feet. Our own climb (in the highest eastern section) seemed only slightly less dramatic. We weren't able to find out exactly how high we were, we think about 9,000 feet. What was readily confirmable was the height almost killed us.

The crests of some of the dunes were so steep the best strategy seemed to be to try and hurry up them before sinking or sliding. Regrettably we crashed into altitude sickness instead. Balloon headed and concrete breathed we needed constant rest breaks. Somehow Isaiah and I managed to encourage one another, by way of competitive taunting, to the top. The view was absolutely phenomenal but the peak of the journey was the descent. Using our rain jackets as sleds we slid our way back. We did the entire trek, up and back, in an hour.

Near death having energized us, we next drove to Colorado's oldest town. San Luis was officially established by Spanish settlers in 1851, who built upon its hill an old and beautiful church. We climbed to it on a gravel trail that is its only access point. Along the path are bronze sculptures depicting cruxifiction scenes.

After a long, gorgeous and sparse drive we were in New Mexico. We perhaps made NW New Mexico even sparser. We felt the van spasm as it potentially hit some unidentifiable something along the road.

We made it to the town of Farmington in good time. Now it took 6 hours, but it was good time because we made it just as the van began to die, producing a strange clicking noise as we re-entered civilization. The clicking grew to an unbearable screeching. It was clear we wouldn't be going any further. Thank god for AAA. Our second tow in just short of three months on the road. We can only hope this won't be a recurring pattern.

Initially luck was not on our side. As we attempted to diagnose the extent of our problems a car slowed, but only to mock our immobility and point out that "no one drives vans anymore." This point was sadly and all too obviously accurate. Is there no good in Farmington?

Why was I surprised by the lack of helpfulness? In Oregon I have broken down in many places, including my own driveway. A church, a parking lot, a grocery store too, and someone has always stopped to assist. The epitome of good samaritanship came in Montana where someone actually invited us to her house for her phone and her mechanic husband.

Other than AAA the only positive was our tow truck driver, who was not only nice, but helpful, showing us how badly intertwined our fan belts were and explained that what we hit earlier on the road likely caused the belts to snap and coil. (He was, however, from Bloomfield, so our wholesale damnation of Farmington continues). Though his opinion should have allowed us to sleep much better, having originally feared our engine had exploded, the anxiety of whether we would wake before the Sear's auto center staff arrived in the morning made sleep difficult.