Finally getting the call we had been waiting for we again made our way back to Albuquerque which involved revisiting some familar places. It was odd to re-cover old ground.
We found a route back to Oklahoma City without tolls, making the drive a little more enjoyable.
The next day in the town of Weatherford we found plush armchairs in their library and nothing else (no exaggeration, I heard a librarian tell a woman new to town that there was "nothing to do").
By Thursday we were back in Amarillo. Having already browsed all this town has to offer, it really was just a stopping point.
Friday, May 31, 2013
Wednesday, May 22, 2013
Days 243 - 247 (Thu 3/21/13 - Mon 3/25/13)- Tulsa, OK
We would have skipped Tulsa altogether if we knew what we would find.
After paying a $4 toll for the privilege of driving on their crappy highway we arrived in Tulsa. Several things came together to make us dislike this city, chief of which was our unnervingly close proximity to Oral Roberts University. Then there were the signs at the river front park warning us that undercover agents were liable to be around in disguises looking for suspicious activity (like, perhaps, two adults hanging out in what looks to be a drug smuggling van and faintly whimpering).
More funny than anything was the well intended but highly ironic "Up with Trees" signs made out of wood, posted on every block.
On the bright side it snowed but didn't stick and we got to watch the heart wrenchingly sad but beautifully done documentary called "Bully" which had me sobbing in the above mentioned parking lot.
Dear Mr. George Strait, in response to your song "Tell me something bad about Tulsa" ....
After paying a $4 toll for the privilege of driving on their crappy highway we arrived in Tulsa. Several things came together to make us dislike this city, chief of which was our unnervingly close proximity to Oral Roberts University. Then there were the signs at the river front park warning us that undercover agents were liable to be around in disguises looking for suspicious activity (like, perhaps, two adults hanging out in what looks to be a drug smuggling van and faintly whimpering).
More funny than anything was the well intended but highly ironic "Up with Trees" signs made out of wood, posted on every block.
On the bright side it snowed but didn't stick and we got to watch the heart wrenchingly sad but beautifully done documentary called "Bully" which had me sobbing in the above mentioned parking lot.
Dear Mr. George Strait, in response to your song "Tell me something bad about Tulsa" ....
Days 238 - 242 (Sat 3/16/13 - Wed 3/20/13)- Oklahoma City, OK
Arriving on Saturday we joined a huge crowd of people for the annual St. Patrick's Day parade. Though no Mardi Gras the town made an effort, passing out candy for the kids and even incorporating a troop of llamas.
Embracing the holiday we spent late into the evening enjoying $5 all-you-can drink green beer in a surprisingly posh club (surprising both for Oklahoma and for an all-you-can drink place). Since we did lose count it can be inferred we got our money's worth (who would have thought of all places we've been we would party in Oklahoma City?). Making friends with a local crew we did find the friendliness advertised on the "Move to Oklahoma City" billboards, though we cannot say we experienced the same friendliness anywhere else.
On Tuesday we headed out to the world renowned National Stockyard (seriously there were German tourists there) to see some real auctioneering. Sitting in the back we hoped to blend into the crowd but failed to as the auctioneer called out to us in between his undescernable, but strangely musical, rattling off of cattle prices. (My heart sank initially fearing we had unwittingly won the auction, worrying how the hell we would fit a cow into the van). We didn't look back when we left, so hopefully we slipped out a little more descreetly than we came in. It was a neat experience but maybe not one well suited for a vegetarian.
Afterwards we visited the Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial Grounds. Later we took very enjoyable showers (until the power went out with soap still in my hair).
On a happier note, we did get to see a movie about a suicial teen. Seriously though Perks of Being a Wallflower was great.
Embracing the holiday we spent late into the evening enjoying $5 all-you-can drink green beer in a surprisingly posh club (surprising both for Oklahoma and for an all-you-can drink place). Since we did lose count it can be inferred we got our money's worth (who would have thought of all places we've been we would party in Oklahoma City?). Making friends with a local crew we did find the friendliness advertised on the "Move to Oklahoma City" billboards, though we cannot say we experienced the same friendliness anywhere else.
On Tuesday we headed out to the world renowned National Stockyard (seriously there were German tourists there) to see some real auctioneering. Sitting in the back we hoped to blend into the crowd but failed to as the auctioneer called out to us in between his undescernable, but strangely musical, rattling off of cattle prices. (My heart sank initially fearing we had unwittingly won the auction, worrying how the hell we would fit a cow into the van). We didn't look back when we left, so hopefully we slipped out a little more descreetly than we came in. It was a neat experience but maybe not one well suited for a vegetarian.
Afterwards we visited the Oklahoma City Bombing Memorial Grounds. Later we took very enjoyable showers (until the power went out with soap still in my hair).
On a happier note, we did get to see a movie about a suicial teen. Seriously though Perks of Being a Wallflower was great.
OKC bombing memoral tower
Day 237 (Friday 3/15/13)- Fort Smith, AR
The town of Fort Smith is named for the major military base housed there. In the 17th and early 18th centuries it was a critical point for controlling lawlessness in the Indian Territory.
When the base closed it became a courthouse and jail. 79 people were hung for crimes of rape or murder, 4 of those were women.
One of the most notorious outlaws to pass through the jail was Cherokee Bill. A photo shows a captured Bill surrounded by 5 Marshals and several other men. As the men posed and the picture was being taken you can actually see Bill reaching for the Marshal's gun. He later tried to break out of jail but was foiled by Henry Starr, the nephew of famous outlaw Belle Starr. (Interesting side note: it is rumored Fort Smith's Judge was sweet on Belle Starr, a rumor based on her receiving a lenient sentence after she stole horses. Then again she was not the prettiest woman, so it's hard to say if there is any truth to the claim).
The prisoners certainly didn't have an easy way of life in Fort Smith, but neither did the Marshals. The Marshals chased down the most dangerous criminals and had to bring them back alive and for only a very small reward. It actually cost them money if they brought fugitives back dead, so if they encountered hostility and had to kill a criminal they would hide the body and not tell anyone. Only half of the 200 Marshals survived the job with their life, making more dead Marshals than dead criminals.
In the evening we watched The Sessions, a very touching movie and should have gotten John Hawkes an Oscar nod.
Cherokee Bill is in the middle reaching
When the base closed it became a courthouse and jail. 79 people were hung for crimes of rape or murder, 4 of those were women.
One of the most notorious outlaws to pass through the jail was Cherokee Bill. A photo shows a captured Bill surrounded by 5 Marshals and several other men. As the men posed and the picture was being taken you can actually see Bill reaching for the Marshal's gun. He later tried to break out of jail but was foiled by Henry Starr, the nephew of famous outlaw Belle Starr. (Interesting side note: it is rumored Fort Smith's Judge was sweet on Belle Starr, a rumor based on her receiving a lenient sentence after she stole horses. Then again she was not the prettiest woman, so it's hard to say if there is any truth to the claim).
The prisoners certainly didn't have an easy way of life in Fort Smith, but neither did the Marshals. The Marshals chased down the most dangerous criminals and had to bring them back alive and for only a very small reward. It actually cost them money if they brought fugitives back dead, so if they encountered hostility and had to kill a criminal they would hide the body and not tell anyone. Only half of the 200 Marshals survived the job with their life, making more dead Marshals than dead criminals.
In the evening we watched The Sessions, a very touching movie and should have gotten John Hawkes an Oscar nod.
Cherokee Bill is in the middle reaching
with his right hand for the Marshal's gun
Days 233 - 236 (Mon 3/11/13 - Thu 3/14/13)- Western Arkansas
Still killing time in western Arkansas we spent a day in Russellville before continuing on to Clarksville. Though the town itself was about the same size it seemed less economically depressed and therefore was a little more enjoyable. Or maybe it was because the library bathroom didn't smell like embalming fluid.
We traveled next to the city of Alma, which had a small town feel but a lot of traffic all night. The town is also home to the Allen Canning company who honored Alma with a special gift- a Popeye statue, which is their company logo and apparent hero.
Finishing our Arkansas city hopping we landed in Fort Smith and were amazed to find that over 87,000 call this town home (especially considering that it is just across the border from Oklahoma). Where did all these people come from? It's like they were fleeing Arkansas and took a few steps into Oklahoma and devoid of any hope for a suitable life, settled in despair on the border.
Day 232 (Sunday 3/10/13)- Ozark Mountains
Most of the day was a slow going drive, five or so hours, but slow going through the beautiful Ozark mountain range, where we were treated with beautiful scenery and a few surprises along the way.
The first surprise was the sudden road crossings of numerous groups of deer, the most we've seen all trip, some visits more startling than others.
The second surprise was Booger Hollow. No, that is not a typo, there's actually a town called Booger Hollow. (What's with Arkansas? We also found a Toad Suck park here). Only seven people call the town home, but they have all banded together in a strong marketing campaign for their discount ham, hanging in the doorways of what appeared to be abandoned mining shacks.
The first surprise was the sudden road crossings of numerous groups of deer, the most we've seen all trip, some visits more startling than others.
The second surprise was Booger Hollow. No, that is not a typo, there's actually a town called Booger Hollow. (What's with Arkansas? We also found a Toad Suck park here). Only seven people call the town home, but they have all banded together in a strong marketing campaign for their discount ham, hanging in the doorways of what appeared to be abandoned mining shacks.
Days 229 - 231 (Thu 3/7/13 - Sat 3/9/13)- Mountain View, AR
When we initially arrived in Mountain View after miles and miles of mountainous driving (thank God we got the brakes done!) we discovered our visit coincided with an annual Blue Grass festival. Hearing people pickin' on their porches or on the stoops of businesses we realized that they don't call Mountain View the Bluegrass capital of the world for nothing. Especially considering that the Porch pickers had nothing to do with the festival, that's just what they do every Saturday.
At the risk of it sounding like an exaggeration, everyone in town can play (seriously, we saw toddlers carrying tiny fiddle cases) and play very well. A few too many people actually. Music began around 10 am and didn't end until well after dark. Band after band played amazing bluegrass for hours on end, simultaneously. That's right, at least three bands played at a time, which did make it a little hard to hear, especially considering they were all right next to each other.
At the risk of it sounding like an exaggeration, everyone in town can play (seriously, we saw toddlers carrying tiny fiddle cases) and play very well. A few too many people actually. Music began around 10 am and didn't end until well after dark. Band after band played amazing bluegrass for hours on end, simultaneously. That's right, at least three bands played at a time, which did make it a little hard to hear, especially considering they were all right next to each other.
Wednesday, May 15, 2013
Day 228 (Wednesday 3/6/13)- Blanchard Springs Caverns, AR
Waking up in a hotel and making very good use of the continental breakfast our spirits were renewed and we were ready to get back on the road (once the repair shop staff had stuffed us full of Girl Scout cookies).
Next was Blanchard Springs Caverns, which according to our tour guide is Arkansas best kept secret. Having seen it for ourselves we can attest to its greatness.
After descending a couple hundred feet underground we learned from a ranger about the geology of these amazing caverns. We toured several rooms and saw some beautifully developed curtain formations, among others. As our guide explained the cavern is better preserved than many others because it wasn't explored to a major extent until the 1960's. The lighting was also better than other caves making for better quality pictures.
Not only were the caves spectacular but the nearby springs were beautiful in their own right, with a waterfall flowing right out of the cave opening.
Day 227 (Tuesday 3/5/13)- Little Rock, AR
The plan was to fill the day with as many museums as we could stand. Our limit turned out to be two. First we visited the Mosaic Templar's Society Museum dedicated to the fraternal organization that increased African Americans social and economic standing in the late 1800's by providing affordable burial options and life insurance.
We then visited the Peabody Hotel, known for it's ducks. Twice a day trained ducks descend from the top floor of the hotel via an elevator and march in formation along a red carpet and into the fountain in the lobby. This daily event originated back in the 1930's when following a failed hunting trip the hotel's owners attempted to drown their decoy ducks. Before they succeeded they realized the hotel guests loved them.
Our second and last museum was the Old State Museum, which would have probably been fascinating if we weren't completely overwhelmed by the amount of information. After a couple of hours and sensory overload we went back to the van, skipping another two museums, only to discover that we wouldn't be leaving town anytime soon.
In Shreveport we had had issues with the brakes and before heading out of town had consulted the locally recommended mechanic. Having 40 years under his belt we had put our faith in him when he gave us the all clear on the van. Now driving in Little Rock the brakes had become so angry it was time for an immediate second opinion.
Now normally when your brakes go out and you get stuck with an almost $1000 bill you feel dispirited. We of course were downcast about the van's continued insatiable appetite for our money, but we did have the single best car repair experience imaginable. Not only did every single member of the staff make us feel welcome and go above and beyond, Parkway Automotive sprang to put us up in a hotel for the night.
Feeling like we had won the lottery we immediately got to work partying like people who have spent 7 months living in a van. Normal people would be so overjoyed with a real bed they would promptly take a 15 hr nap. Instead we bought two days of food just to use the refrigerator, watched TV 'til nearly daybreak, enjoyed non supermarket facilities and took multiple baths, just because we could.
It is a night that will live in our memories for some time. Simple things have become luxurious.
Day 226 (Monday 3/4/13)- Little Rock, AR
After a brisk but beautiful hike through Jean Petit State Park (and seeing the best natural bridge yet) we arrived in Little Rock.
Our first stop was the Central High School Visitor's Center, now part of the national park system. Central is still an operating high school, so ranger tours are infrequent. We lucked into arriving just as one was beginning. We were tired from the hike and surrounded by two huge and rowdy school groups and therefore expecting little from the tour. By the end of the talk we were blown away.
Seated in the gigantic auditorium the passionate Ranger challenged the little we had previously heard about the school (even as back-to-back fire and earthquake drills and student evacuations tried to drown out his speech). In 1957, 10 black students attempted to integrate Central High School. Yet not only had the history books given only a cursory glance to what happened, they had stopped far short of the full story.
Central wasn't the first school to be integrated in Arkansas, but it was strategically targeted, as it was large and well known. So large that when it was built it was the biggest school in the nation. This was obviously not because Little Rock was the biggest city in the country, but because when money was set aside for white students and black students Central took both. The black school had to rely on scraps-broken desks and grafittied books, that when no longer of use to the white students, were carried by dump truck to the front of the black school and dumped on the lawn.
Some schools desegregated earlier, mostly because the towns were so small they couldn't afford to operate two separate schools, but Central certainly brought the most media attention, making it a turning point in history. Initially the school board agreed to enroll 200 black students. This number shrank to 10 when students learned they would be banned from extracurricular activities and only students with perfect academic records would be admitted. Then of course there was the fact that those who did change schools would have to endure hell.
The first attempt at integration went horribly. The Governor used the National Guard not, as the black students rightfully assumed, to protect them from the angry mobs, but to block them from entering the school. After the first day one student returned permanently to her former school after being threatened by the Guard.
Later, after 8 of the students had survived the year-one girl was expelled after she dumped a tray of food on some of her tormentors and one boy graduated against all odds, begrudgingly passed as the school had nothing to hold against him, the Governor took swift action. To keep his job and avoid another year of integration he pushed through a weekend ballot authorizing school closures. It passed with 20,000 people voting in the affirmative and for all of 1958 Little Rock students of all races didn't go to school.
Later in the day we toured the Heifer International Village and got a brief look into the wonderful work Heifer does in the world, supplying animals to the hungry and educating the recipients on how to care for their livestock and continue the cycle of giving by sharing offspring with their community. I was amazed to learn you can buy a chicken for someone in a foreign country for just $20 and provide them sustainable food.
Finishing up a physically and emotionally exhausting yet wonderful day we spent the evening enjoying the university's rec center, particularly the private showers, hot tub and sauna.
Our first stop was the Central High School Visitor's Center, now part of the national park system. Central is still an operating high school, so ranger tours are infrequent. We lucked into arriving just as one was beginning. We were tired from the hike and surrounded by two huge and rowdy school groups and therefore expecting little from the tour. By the end of the talk we were blown away.
Seated in the gigantic auditorium the passionate Ranger challenged the little we had previously heard about the school (even as back-to-back fire and earthquake drills and student evacuations tried to drown out his speech). In 1957, 10 black students attempted to integrate Central High School. Yet not only had the history books given only a cursory glance to what happened, they had stopped far short of the full story.
Central wasn't the first school to be integrated in Arkansas, but it was strategically targeted, as it was large and well known. So large that when it was built it was the biggest school in the nation. This was obviously not because Little Rock was the biggest city in the country, but because when money was set aside for white students and black students Central took both. The black school had to rely on scraps-broken desks and grafittied books, that when no longer of use to the white students, were carried by dump truck to the front of the black school and dumped on the lawn.
Some schools desegregated earlier, mostly because the towns were so small they couldn't afford to operate two separate schools, but Central certainly brought the most media attention, making it a turning point in history. Initially the school board agreed to enroll 200 black students. This number shrank to 10 when students learned they would be banned from extracurricular activities and only students with perfect academic records would be admitted. Then of course there was the fact that those who did change schools would have to endure hell.
The first attempt at integration went horribly. The Governor used the National Guard not, as the black students rightfully assumed, to protect them from the angry mobs, but to block them from entering the school. After the first day one student returned permanently to her former school after being threatened by the Guard.
Later, after 8 of the students had survived the year-one girl was expelled after she dumped a tray of food on some of her tormentors and one boy graduated against all odds, begrudgingly passed as the school had nothing to hold against him, the Governor took swift action. To keep his job and avoid another year of integration he pushed through a weekend ballot authorizing school closures. It passed with 20,000 people voting in the affirmative and for all of 1958 Little Rock students of all races didn't go to school.
Later in the day we toured the Heifer International Village and got a brief look into the wonderful work Heifer does in the world, supplying animals to the hungry and educating the recipients on how to care for their livestock and continue the cycle of giving by sharing offspring with their community. I was amazed to learn you can buy a chicken for someone in a foreign country for just $20 and provide them sustainable food.
Finishing up a physically and emotionally exhausting yet wonderful day we spent the evening enjoying the university's rec center, particularly the private showers, hot tub and sauna.
This girl never even got to step foot into the school.
The torments from the crowd and treatment from the
National Guard were so bad she never went back.
The torments from the crowd and treatment from the
National Guard were so bad she never went back.
Saturday, May 4, 2013
Days 221 - 225 (Wed 2/27/13 - Sun 3/3/13)- Russellville, AR
Briefly passing through the towns Arkadelphia and Dardanelle on a lovely scenic highway we spent the majority of our time in the town of Russellville. There really isn't much to say about the small town other than it happens to be a good spot to kill time while alternately eagerly and despondantly waiting for a call back from Breaking Bad (Isaiah is slated to be an extra, though it has been a slow going process to say the least).
While bidding our time we got so bored and anxious to move on that even the library's Dr. Seuss Birthday Party couldn't quell our discontentment. That along with being questioned by the police about selling weapons (apparently an equally seedy looking van was dealing guns in the same Walmart parking lot. It did not help matters that when asked about possessing firearms, nervous me misheard the Officer and exclaimed "ooh fireworks, I'd like to buy some fireworks") lead us to get out of town, making a strategic loop through western/central Arkansas to get some distance from Russellville, while still being in range of New Mexico should the call ever come.
While bidding our time we got so bored and anxious to move on that even the library's Dr. Seuss Birthday Party couldn't quell our discontentment. That along with being questioned by the police about selling weapons (apparently an equally seedy looking van was dealing guns in the same Walmart parking lot. It did not help matters that when asked about possessing firearms, nervous me misheard the Officer and exclaimed "ooh fireworks, I'd like to buy some fireworks") lead us to get out of town, making a strategic loop through western/central Arkansas to get some distance from Russellville, while still being in range of New Mexico should the call ever come.
Day 220 (Tue 2/26/13)- Hot Springs Park, AR
Now don't be fooled into thinking we got to spend the day lounging at a lush hot springs resort. In fact it was quite the opposite, as we toured the park's grounds in the coldest Arkansas weather to date, clutching a hot drink for warmth and wishing we had put on thicker coats.
Widely known as one of the purest hot springs in the world, the water here (which was once rain) takes so long to travel through the hot springs system that when it comes out it is over 4,400 years old. This means that not only is the untreated water pure enough to drink (It was hot and good) but that health-seekers for 100 years have proclaimed its healing properties. Physicians in the early 1900's even wrote prescriptions for it.
This beautiful town with a "mountainside" (they still refer to it as a mountain though time has eroded it down to more of a large hill) and 47 distinct hot springs has another special attraction-Bill Clinton. His family moved to Hot Springs when he was in the second grade.
In the evening we watched The Master. Unusual for us we were divided on this one, Isaiah liked it and I just couldn't get into it.
Widely known as one of the purest hot springs in the world, the water here (which was once rain) takes so long to travel through the hot springs system that when it comes out it is over 4,400 years old. This means that not only is the untreated water pure enough to drink (It was hot and good) but that health-seekers for 100 years have proclaimed its healing properties. Physicians in the early 1900's even wrote prescriptions for it.
This beautiful town with a "mountainside" (they still refer to it as a mountain though time has eroded it down to more of a large hill) and 47 distinct hot springs has another special attraction-Bill Clinton. His family moved to Hot Springs when he was in the second grade.
In the evening we watched The Master. Unusual for us we were divided on this one, Isaiah liked it and I just couldn't get into it.
Day 219 (Monday 2/25/13)- Natural Resources Museum, AR
Before leaving Shreveport we ended up making two stops, one of which was unplanned. The first stop was to try the famous "Muffy" sandwich at Fertitta's (same as a muffaleta, just shortened so that it would fit on their sign). The sandwiches were delicious and the environment friendly.
We also found what we thought was an answer to a problem (read our Blog from Little Rock to learn more). On our drive over to the restaurant our brakes started making an awful noise. On the advice of the owner of Fertitta's (who was a former mechanic) we had it checked out by a local repair shop he recommended. The owner of the shop gave us the green light and we headed out of town, winding up the beautiful 7.
To split up the drive we made a stop along the way at the Arkansas Natural Resources Museum, a two story museum devoted to oil. As several placards explained, the museum is funded by a mandatory tax on oil companies.
Though not a topic I have much interest in, the museum was so well done we found ourselves engaged despite the subject matter (surprise-big oil has money and good PR).
Starting on a glass elevator that takes you up through a re-creation of the evolution of oil, you land on the museum's main floor, made to resemble an early oil drilling town. Here we got to read all about the experiences of people during the early oil booms. For example, so many people flooded into these towns, barber chairs were rented out to people to sleep in at night. Coffins too.
After finishing the tour with a room full of random but entertaining optical illusions, we finished the trek and capped the evening by watching Two days in New York. A quirky, lovely comedy with Chris Rock doing a fine job in a role much different from his comedy stage persona.
We also found what we thought was an answer to a problem (read our Blog from Little Rock to learn more). On our drive over to the restaurant our brakes started making an awful noise. On the advice of the owner of Fertitta's (who was a former mechanic) we had it checked out by a local repair shop he recommended. The owner of the shop gave us the green light and we headed out of town, winding up the beautiful 7.
To split up the drive we made a stop along the way at the Arkansas Natural Resources Museum, a two story museum devoted to oil. As several placards explained, the museum is funded by a mandatory tax on oil companies.
Though not a topic I have much interest in, the museum was so well done we found ourselves engaged despite the subject matter (surprise-big oil has money and good PR).
Starting on a glass elevator that takes you up through a re-creation of the evolution of oil, you land on the museum's main floor, made to resemble an early oil drilling town. Here we got to read all about the experiences of people during the early oil booms. For example, so many people flooded into these towns, barber chairs were rented out to people to sleep in at night. Coffins too.
After finishing the tour with a room full of random but entertaining optical illusions, we finished the trek and capped the evening by watching Two days in New York. A quirky, lovely comedy with Chris Rock doing a fine job in a role much different from his comedy stage persona.
Fertitta's
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