Friday, March 29, 2013

Day 184 (Monday 1/21/13)- Breaking Bad

Though 27 might be a little young to make such a bold statement, hell, this very well might be one of the best days of my life. Arriving early on set in the hope of scoring a free breakfast I quickly made friends with an eclectic bunch of Extras and gorged myself on a buffet table full of food.

Morning involved Wardrobe, Hair and Makeup and waiting to be driven to set. Also, I had the special pleasure of seeing Aaron Paul (Jesse), Bryan Cranston (Walt), Betsey Brandt (Marie) and Dean Norris (Hank) as I walked to and from the bathroom throughout the morning (drinks were free too).

Around 11am or so we loaded into vans and drove about 100 feet from the tents and trailers to the restaurant where the scene was being filmed. Sitting with my new group of friends at a table that was hopefully within frame, I had the nicest wordless conversations (you can't actually talk as the mikes will pick up the sound), ate chips (for continuity sake once I had a chip on the first take, I had to have one every time...darn) all the while sitting feet away from everyone mentioned above, as well as Anna Gunn (Skyler). In between scenes we were treated to a catered lunch and I found out they actually pay you to do all this (not nearly enough to cover the cost of gas getting here, but still incoming money, rather than just outgoing).

All in all it was an amazing 11 hours and I felt it ended too soon. However Isaiah was glad to see me as he had been in the van all day, unable to be on set and having nowhere other than an abandoned shopping mall to go to. As a treat for his patience we managed to time things perfectly and pull up next to the whole cast as they unloaded from their transport van, Heisenberg's head gleaming.


Post Hair and Makeup

Day 183 (Sunday 1/20/13)- Albuquerque, NM

Knowing that tomorrow I would be playing a person living in a normal civilian world (or at least as normal as is possible in Breaking Bad), convincing cast and crew that I have regular access to a shower and more than one clean outfit, we spent the day showering and doing laundry.

Sleeping was difficult anticipating my day on set. My head swarmed with possibilities like 'will Bryan Cranston take me as a second wife?' and 'what if I screw up the scene?' until I realized I would likely have no contact with Mr. Walter White and probably wouldn't even make it into the shot. I was then able to fall asleep just fine.

Day 182 (Saturday 1/19/13)- Roswell, NM

Other than seeing businesses cheesily attempting to cash in on the Area 51 hype, a military school complete with turrets and some strange town folk, Roswell was just your average town. Luckily for us we fit right in.
Desperately needing to class up for our T.V. appearance we spent our day in the Twilight Zone primping. The Walmart parking lot not exactly the same as a beauty salon, we headed for a park and I played look out while Isaiah cut his hair.
His makeover was ill timed. About the time the clippers were shut off we got a call that Isaiah would be needed for another scene. Instead of a clean cut customer, he needed to go back to looking criminal. Sigh. 
 

Tuesday, March 26, 2013

Days 177 - 181 (Mon 1/14/13 - Fri 1/18/13)- Austin, TX

Austin was one of the cities we were most excited to visit on this trip. It is renowned for it's art culture, laid back atmosphere and being much different than the rest of Texas.
We had initially planned to stay quite a while and so when the first couple days were really cold we didn't think anything of spending the day inside staying warm. By Wednesday the weather was better and we ventured out. First to the Ladybird Johnson Wildflower Center and then to the nation's largest Hindu temple.
The gardens were lovely but not as stunning as I imagine they are in the Spring or Summer. The temple was equally out of season as we walked the grounds without seeing anyone but a Fedex driver.
Wednesday evening we got a call that we had been selected as Extras on our favorite T.V. show Breaking Bad and would be shooting the episode on Monday. Being over 700 miles away this gave us little time to experience Austin and get to Albuquerque before filming.
Thursday we tried seeing some of Austin's museums, but struck out when it came to parking. It seemed silly to pay $15 to go to a free museum. We cut our loses, tried to get out of the extensive traffic and spent some time at the gigantic Zigler park where we had our first spotting of Austin hipsters. They are rumored to only come out at night. This made spying them difficult as after sunset we were stuck in the one camper friendly Walmart on the edge of town. Wild plummage, strange lip fur, exotic colors, a visual feast at the park.
Before leaving town on Friday we made a stop for some Texas BBQ. Salt Lick came highly recommended and we drove miles into the country to visit the most highly rated Driftwood location. Here we spent hours gorging ourselves (Isaiah on every type of meat possible and myself on coleslaw, potato salad and rolls), enjoying Texas Shiner Bock beer (it's B.Y.O.B.) and in the end earning an "Impressive" from the waitress on the quantity of food Isaiah was able to consume.
 
Lady Bird Johnson Gardens
 
Hindu Temple

Day 176 (Sunday 1/13/13)- Houston, TX

Forewarning:
Some may take offense to my comments on Joel Osteen's mega church and for this I apologize in advance. Should you fit into this demographic I suggest you skip to the next entry.
With Texans bragging about how everything about them is big, their churches are no exception. In fact they are home to the nation's largest church. With over 43,000 members, Joel Osteen's Lakewood mega church is housed in a stadium. Literally. And not Rob Lowe literally (Chris on Parks & Rec). Once you enter the sanctuary you understand. Like no other church we have ever seen, going to church here is like going to an arena concert every Sunday. They put on a good show.
With a smile on his face every second, (a non-smile is a frown, a frown a chance for a thought, a thought a chance for a doubt, and doubt, damnation) Joel appeared to us and thousands of viewers at home to talk about how "twenty-thirteen will be a blessed year." His combination of charisma, his beautiful wife at his side (a co-preacher) and motivational style of preaching was almost infectious. No, I mean really, we felt sick afterward. No offense Mr. Osteen. I imagine many church leaders believe their congregation to be the blessed ones, the variation here being that from what I understood of the message (and in all fairness I might have missed something) the route to a blessed year is through Lakewood alone. With a church his size you would expect him to have more varied and specific examples of how God has healed his followers and gotten them rich, as he, Osteen that is, has promised to those who believe (along with marriage proposals and job promotions. Also it was suggested that one of Joel's sermons had nearly cured Autism). I did find one example of multiplied wealth-selling the text version of God's message to people that are already paying you to verbally tell it to them- to think some fool preachers give that stuff away for a mere suggested donation or tithe. Jesus, for example, from what I remember, didn't ask for cent. Well, there was that bit about selling all your stuff and rejecting your family and following Him, somehow Osteen's interpretation seemed more like a Realtor and matchmaker combined. Joel smiley had a bookstore in his church selling his own books at a price higher than what you would probably pay at Walmart. Next up, Olsteen Used Cars. I shouldn't be such a cynic. Maybe God will upgrade our house on wheels. Like the angel Michael said, George Michael that is, "you gotta have faith."
Before leaving enormous Houston behind we made one last stop to see the Menil Collection. We were expecting a prestigious art gallery. What we got was a huge room with neon lights. It was a retina strain but kinda cool. We found out the Menil had other buildings, but for the sake of our eyes, we skipped the rest.

 
 
                                 The Menil Collection

Days 174 & 175 (Fri 1/11/13 & Sat 1/12/13)- Houston, TX

 
Have you seen Downton Abbey yet? I know, I know, we are years behind on TV, this trip generally not helping matters, but if you haven't seen season 1, do so now. We loved it so much we watched the first season twice taking up a good chunk of our day and breaking up the long drive to Houston. We didn't love it so much as to watch it while driving as that last sentence suggests.

Spending only a couple days in the nation's fourth most populus city made for a whirlwind of a weekend but we succeeded in cramming our plans to fit our timeline. Saturday was spent with the sad, the bad and the terrible.

The Holocaust Museum was devastating. Houston based holocaust survivors recounted their most horrifying memories in a video. For both our sakes I won't go into detail.

We spent the rest of the day trying to cheer ourselves up at Goodwills which proved impossible and so we settled into Walmart for the night. Big fans of Joseph Gordon Levitt's we had high hopes for the movie Premium Rush. It was bad. Really bad in fact, but not terrible.

The terrible part of the night was the Walmart we stayed at. Between the trains passing behind our window and the drug fueled ranting in the parking we had a sleepless night. How come the things you would most like to sleep through are the very things that wake you and make sleep impossible?
 
 
                                Memorial wall at the Holocaust Museum



Day 173 (Thursday 1/10/13)- Padre Island National Shore, TX

 Spending the day at the world's longest strip of preserved beach we felt things couldn't get any better...and then....

Catching a Ranger setting out on a tour, we decided, to follow along, once we learned the guide's name was Buzz Botts. Clearly a man born and raised in the South, Buzz had a thick Texan accent and an attitude to match. As he led us around the shoreline he picked up jellyfish, a Portguese man-of-war (highly dangerous when alive) and anything else he could find while making comments like "they don't like when I pick things up." He even coaxed Isaiah into sticking his finger in the jellyfish's mouth, afterwards explaining how it's mouth and "butthole" are one in the same. Ranger Buzz may be a global warming skeptic and an oil drilling enthusiast, (particularly odd for a Park Service Employee) but he had his roguish charms.

Later in the visitor's center we got a taste of an accent that was as thick as tar when trying to communicate with a volunteer who insisted on explaining every item contained in the "Discovery box." It was, though passionate, far from English and it made for a difficult 20 minutes.

It seemed to be some sort of work release program for convicted moonshiners that have a disturbing fondness for sea shells.
The visitor's center wasn't all a bust, as it had a video about endangered Kemp's Ridley sea turtles, 60% of whom call Padre Island home. Each year the Rangers help ensure the baby sea turtles hatch and make it to the surf while thousands of onlookers cheer on their little legged efforts. We didn't get the chance to see this incredible feat in person as it wasn't hatching season, but even on video the baby sea turtles are about as cute as it gets. (Amanda needs to establish some sort of scale of cuteness here. Who wins world's cutest-little Sebastian or baby turtles?) We were astonished to learn that you can drive on Texas beaches, Padre Island, a National Park, is no exception. Not even endangered species stop Texans from driving wherever they want to.
 


                                             
                                                          Portuguese Man-of-War

                                            
                                                    Buzz Botts defiles a jellyfish

                              
                                                      The beach at sunset

                                         


                                        

Friday, March 22, 2013

Day 172 (Wednesday 1/9/13)- Corpus Christi, TX

Before bidding goodbye to San Antonio we stopped first at several of their famous missions. Though of course The Alamo is the most well known there are five more spread throughout the city, each with it's own unique history. We found the missions fascinating but were eager to leave the city after having stayed a week and a half, our longest stretch yet. Another motivation might have been our next destination.

To say we were looking forward to the beach would be an understatement. This winter has been the coldest the south has seen in 20 years. A little sunshine would do wonders for our recovering health. With sun on our minds we arrived in Corpus Christi to a couple of set backs. Right as we pulled into town our GPS died. We managed to make our way to a visitor's center but came out with nothing more than a poorly labeled and abbreviated city map which barely got us where we needed to go.

The other surprise was something not featured on postcards- thick clouds of black smoke. Numerous factories choak the Texas coastline. It shocked me. It is a testament to how beautiful the shoreline is that we managed to forget the factories and enjoy our time on the beach.
 
 
                   
                                   Mission in San Antonio

                                         

                                         

                                          

                                          



                  

Day 171 (Tuesday 1/8/13)- The Alamo

We really couldn't put off any longer seeing the Alamo (while daylight and open) so we got a free one-hour parking spot (almost hoping the Alamo wasn't interesting, so we wouldn't get a parking ticket).
We raced through a courtyard and a museum and had just enough time to watch a movie before running back to the van. Here's what we learned on our sprint:

The battle for the Alamo mission was one of many Texas battles, but the most famous. In 1836 Texas was under Spanish rule. Disliking its new dictator, Texan civilians took up arms in resistance. A group of 200 opposed a Spanish army of more than 2000 and miraculously managed to hold the Alamo for a full 13 days. The battle is further cherished for what might be a piece of historical fiction-the story goes that the Alamo commander, knowing death was imminent, gave the fighters the choice to stay and fight and die or to flee. All but one stayed.

Following our history lesson we left for the Blue Star Gallery. There we found, with a few exceptions, a gallery for the strange. One piece consisted of a giant, fluorescent green elk adorned with furry pom-poms, plastic flowers, and covered in melted hot pink wax.

We capped off the day at the San Antonio Museum of Art which had four floors of artifacts and artwork spanning from early Rome to contemporary Latin American. Somehow we managed to see every item in under 4 hours. Proud of our accomplishment, but with our legs quivering in exhaustion we retired to bed as soon as possible.


        
                                          The Alamo

Sunday, March 17, 2013

Days 164 - 170 (Tue 1/1/13 - Mon 1/7/13)- San Antonio, TX

 
Spending such a long stretch in one town is unusual, however poor health and poor weather necessitated it and we settled into a sort of routine.

A few days catching up on laundry, cleaning ourselves and the van, another couple researching Walmart security. Apparently they don't like people actually living in their lot. Thankfully we came out of the store right before we got towed.

With all the downtime we watched a couple movies, "Killer Joe" and "Damsels in Distress," the first being well made but very intense and the second being the opposite. Finally on Sunday, sick and sick of our lazy life of leisure, we braved the weather and set off for the McNay Museum. Cold be damned. For several hours we toured the massive estate in which hung Manet's, Monet's and Picasso's among others. We even got to meet a local artist who has work permanently displayed and evesdropped on a tour whose topic of discussion was how creepy Picasso was. Apparently he stalked a young woman until she agreed to pose for him and courted a 14-year-old by meeting for "dates" at a nearby youth camp.

The museum was a treat but massive and as we were not fully rejuvinated we needed all of Monday to recover.


            

                       
                                 Picasso's stalking victim

                  

    Caricature of George W. Bush and his policy in the Middle East

Day 163 (Monday 12/31/12)- San Antonio, TX

 The last of the year had us again with low energy and poor health. With an easy day we hoped to renew our strength and, if we mustered the strength, perhaps stay up to midnight.

Unwittingly we were flu ridden in one of Yahoo's top places to spend New Year's. Over 200,000 people, good tex mex music, tolerant police, happy people and fireworks shot out of a tower, it was our kind of party. Pass the sizzurrp. We were even treated to a performance from Little Sebastian the heartbreakingly adorable 10-year old San Antonio native who stole hearts on America's Got Talent.

It must have been good. We stayed up well past midnight.

Happy New Year! 


                   
               Seriously the cuttest thing I have ever seen!


Day 162 (Sunday 12/30/12)- San Antonio, TX

After a grueling day driving through gloomy and windy weather we arrived in town down in spirits, health and energy.
Knowing that Brenda and David, our friends from Oregon, were in town and presumably ready to drown their sorrows after watching Oregon State lose to the Longhorns in the last quarter (by an unjust and excruciating four points) we rallied and were glad we did. Brenda and David had bucked up too. The loss of football games and nose fluid wouldn't ruin our night.
Meeting up at the Alamo we strolled the Riverwalk which was mesmerizing with all its multi colored Christmas lights and people milling about. We ate at the Republic of Texas to mixed reviews. I happened to overhear karaoke warbling from inside the bar. This led to an encouraging Brenda and David and a horrified Isaiah (not a karaoke fan) and unanimous but unenthusiastic reviews. It started off well, my first two songs perfectly catered to a Texan audience.
It was when Brenda and I dueted, after dismissing many suggested country numbers neither of us knew, in favor of our version of "Independent Women" that things slid downhill. It is accurate to say the crowd turned on us, best evidenced by the total lack of anyone "throwing their hands up with me." Not even a pity raise the roof emerged from Isaiah or David. We tried to muddle through but didn't know the verses, which were fast and the chorus, which we knew, but was genre inappropriate. It was a little bit of a hot mess. Fortunate for us the extremely drunk and extremely sweet Aggies fan liked us (Texas A & M has a fierce hatred for the Longhorns, so we had bonded) and whipped up a spirited chant of "Longhorns down." This received more cooperative and boisterous crowd participation than our plea for "all the ladies who were making dollars."


                                      
                                          Brenda and I

Day 161 (Saturday 12/29/12)- Big Bend Park, TX

The western edge of Texas is so sparse you can drive half a day without seeing any sort of landmark, or even a gas station. It was through this deserted territory we spent the day, stopping at two worthwhile sites.
Fort Davis was a major base for Western Texas before and after the Civil War, housing over 400 soldiers in it's prime. We lucked into a tour of the barracks and caught a glimpse into how the men lived. We finished our walking tour of the grounds at the base hospital where we learned how little doctors could do for the sick during that time. So many things we shrug off today were death sentences back then.
Reaching Big Bend in the late afternoon we raced the setting sun to see all of the enormous park. So big in fact Texas actually shares the park with Mexico.
After having chugged up Guadalupe and Big Bend we now know that Texas isn't entirely flat. Just the rest of it. Just the next couple weeks of driving.


                       
                                     Soldier's beds at Fort Davis

                       
            Playing cards used to come without writing on them




                   
                                                          Big Bend

                   

Monday, March 11, 2013

Day 160 (Friday 12/28/12)- Guadalupe Mountains, TX

With deflated pride we found ourselves chugging back down the mountain, our downward pace much quicker than our brief ascent.
It certainly wasn't due to a lack of trying but the combination of stunningly distracting beauty, breath quickening altitude changes and a long drawn out recovery from cold and flu season, had our feet protesting and leading us, before long, back to the parking lot.
We at least climbed enough to take in the scenic overlook and be awed by it's magnificient view.


                         

                

                

                

Days 158 & 159 (Wed 12/26/12 & Thu 12/27/12)- Carlsbad, NM

I still find myself a little baffled by Texas geography. The odd shape of the state found us heading west and running into New Mexico.

Our first day back in New Mexico featured little of note but our second day was excellent. Visiting Carlsbad Caverns during the holidays we we just barely able to squeeze into a 11:00 tour.

We expected something similar to the caves we visited in South Dakota. Here was unlike else we've seen. Incredible jagged formations covered the entirety of the caverns. Well, except the snack bar, gift shop and restaurant, all 750 feet under ground!

Several tour options were available and we decided upon, no surprise, a buffet. Trekking miles deep into the caverns we found the self-guided trail unsuited for the gravity challenged, which is to say I not so gracefully made my way down the steep decline.

The guided tour was also a nice way to see the cave, giving us a chance to see many features not available on the self-guided route and to hear stories about the cave's origins, like how the cavern was discovered by a young man who after finding it ran back to tell his co-workers. He was ridiculed as crazy. We almost couldn't believe the cave either.




        



           

          

Day 157- Christmas in Lubbock

Merry Christmas!

Having enjoyed 60 degree weather since arriving in Texas, waking to snow on Christmas was a surprise. The roads were dicey so we proceeded (slowly) to IHOP for breakfast.

A delicious and warm breakfast justified all the slipping and sliding getting there. After enjoying the heater at McDonald's for lunch, we began the day.

Isaiah had a master plan full of fun and access to toilets. Being Christmas, and everything being closed, we would go to the theatre. We had mapped out our plan-Django, then Lincoln, Flight, followed by Life of Pi. We had disguises, we were ready to go.

After Django Unchained we were attempting to sneak into a screening of Lincoln. We ran into three guards. There went our plan.

Thankfully Django was three hours long and awesome, so we had a nice time and got to use the bathroom before settling into the eerily closed Walmart parking lot.

Yes, we liked Django. A lot. Even with all the discomfort. The criticism I've heard about the movie seems to find offense with either its intent or its influence.
I don't think Tarantino is a racist.* Yes, the N word was omnipresent in the movie. The word, of course, was used at the time, though I'm not so sure it had been adapted by the slaves NWA style.

It was odd watching the movie in Texas and yes, some people were laughing at inappropriate parts-not the inappropriate parts you were supposed to laugh at, but basically anytime a white guy said the N word followed by something belittling.

Speaking of the N word, doesn't it seem like something has to change here in order to move forward? It's still a word that divides and excludes, but in a new way. It's remarkable. A word used to denigrate a group was embraced by the group to steal its sting. And this worked so astoundingly well that not only is it no longer appropriate to say the word, but the group the word denegrated has risen in social status to such a degree that now middle class white youth want desperately to use the word to be cool and can't. (This is not to suggest, at all, that inequality doesn't still exist).

I don't like the word. But it is weird to not be able to type out a word when I have no ill intent, but am merely repeating a word that others use, also with no ill intent.

I guess my questions are:

Is a white man writing about slavery somehow different than a white man writing a female character or a Japanese one? Can he not write a character that would say something that he the author is not supposed to say? Could he write a character who is a murderous slave owner, as long as he doesn't say the N word? Can we laugh at racists, if they are funny and the joke not racist? Can we laugh at slaves, if they are funny? If racists in the audience laugh for racists reasons, is the filmaker to be blamed for presenting racial subject matter? Are there differerent answers to these questions depending on your race?

Can there be any treatment of a horrible subject in a fantastical way? Do the people that condemn Django also condemn "Life is Beautiful," on the grounds there should be nothing funny about the Holocaust?

Can a character not be allowed to be evil (Sam Jackson) because he's a slave? Can, because of all this heaviness, a film not also be allowed to be exciting and entertaining, (which is, after all, why most people go to the movies) that to do so is demeaning to its subject?

Is it enough that the movie brings blacks and whites together to root for a black superhero and root for him to kill racists? Is it enough that a movie get us uncomfortable, gets us in some way considering, even confronting disgusting aspects of our past (which few films tackle and none that I can think of in this demographic-and a western to boot). I think some assume Tarantino did not consider these matters. Or at least not enough, that he should approach writing a story and character differently because of a character's race.

 
*Why I don't think Tarantino is racist. Quotes from an interview with Henry Louis Gates.



"One of my American Western heroes is not John Ford, obviously. To say the least, I hate him. Forget about faceless Indians he killed like zombies. It really is people like that that kept alive this idea of Anglo-Saxon humanity compared to everybody else's humanity."

"I think it ("The Birth of a Nation") gave rebirth to the Klan and all the blood that that was spilled throughout -- until the early '60s, practically. I think that both Rev. Thomas Dixon Jr. and D.W. Griffith, if they were held by Nuremberg Laws, they would be guilty of war crimes for making that movie."

"I think America is one of the only countries that has not been forced, sometimes by the rest of the world, to look their own past sins completely in the face. And it's only by looking them in the face that you can possibly work past them."



Our Christmas Tree
 

Days 154 - 156 (Sat 12/22/12 - Mon 12/24/12)- Lubbock, TX

Opting to leave Amarillo for the larger town of Lubbock we arrived to enjoy all the ammenties the town had to offer. It was a short list-WiFi stolen from a carwash near the Walmart and a library open on Christmas Eve.
We spent the weekend watching hours of Comedy Central and turning red velvet cake into multiple meals. Though the town seemed full of down on their luck people, littered with plastic bags (mountains of them) and little to do, we still found ourselves somewhat enjoying it all.
                         
          
                              The biggest tumbleweed ever

           
              Isaiah, the tumbleweed and Vandrea for comparison

Days 152 & 153 (Thu 12/20/12 & Fri 12/21/12)- Amarillo, TX

Fleeing now cold Kansas and Oklahoma we arrived in Texas ready for sunshine and blue skies. We were rewarded with sixty degree weather and much warmer nights. No windstorms. No snow. No ice.

Thursday brought R&R with one near exception. Reading a NRA article aloud in an incredulous voice at a busy McDonald's earned me a swift kick under the table from Isaiah (the NRA president responded to the CT shooting by saying we need armed guards in all our schools, forgetting, apparently, there was an armed guard at Columbine who tried, unsuccessfully, to take down the shooters and that even trained police officers have a very low hit rate (in NYC in 2005 less than 18% of bullets fired hit their intended target according to the New York Times). He alerted me early enough into my rant that no one seemed to notice. It's unsure if anyone would have been offended, but why take a chance?

Friday proved the Mayans were wrong. Life continued. (But human sacrifices to get the sun to come up, the Mayans were on to something there. How come that part didn't end up on billboards?

There's something strangely egotistical about End Timers. That though the world is billions of years old it will end while their on it, as if it can't go on without them. Was there ever a time in history when there were no wars or disasters? Were people sitting around saying, "Whew, now we don't have to worry about that Jesus Guy showing up.")
 
With a new chance at life we visited the Amarillo Museum of Modern Art. On the college campus during winter break we had three floors to ourselves. We lingered over landscape and abstract paintings and a floor devoted solely to ancient Asian art. There were even pieces from the 2nd century!

(An aside; resentment is brewing. It seems lots of universities have cool, free museums. I don't remember anything comparable at Oregon State).


                                        
                                            Museum at Amarillo University